To Ayers Rock and Beyond by W.E. (Bill) Harney
London: Robert Hale Limited, 1963
If you are thinking of travelling to Uluru (Ayers Rock), it would be worthwhile to read this little book before you go. Written by Bill Harney, who by the time he wrote this was a well known author of books about Central Australia and Aboriginal life and lore, To Ayers Rock and Beyond is a book written about aspects of his time as the first appointed Ranger of the Ayers Rock-Mount Olga National Park. While the book talks about the antics of the early tourists to the park, and some of the problems of transport and so-on that came with opening up the area to tourists, the book is mostly about the Aboriginal story of the area.
While Harney had spent a lifetime in Northern Australia, until he was appointed Ranger he had never been to Uluru, and he was determined to find out as much as he could about the Aboriginals of the area, and their stories and traditions. Like many white northern bushmen, Harney had a deep respect for Aboriginal Australians and their way of life, and he soon was able to spend time with local men, in particular Minyinderri, a Loritdja (Luritja) man, who could describe for Harney the dreamtime stories to do with Uluru and its immediate surrounds.
Harney spends a few chapters of this book writing about the mythical meaning of many of the features of Uluru, which has much to do with fertility and the beginning of man in that area. He describes how Minyinderri and his tribesmen, who had been living at a Mission Station some distance from their traditional lands, took some time to re-aquaint themselves with the Rock, before beginning to sing to the country, allowing Harney to transcribe some of their chants and ask as to the meaning of what they were singing. As with much Aboriginal mythology, there are many layers of meaning in their chants and singing, and what Harney describes is, I'm sure, the version that is allowed to be told to non-initiates of the tribe.
The latter part of the book describes a journey made by Harney to the Petermann Ranges, where he not only traverses the spectacular country, but learns from Djuwerri some more about the mythology of the area. Djuwerri had not been on his home country for many years, and the raw emotion that overcame him when they arrived on country is well described by Harney.
As with many books written about Central Australia in the late 1950s and early 1960s, there is an inherent sadness at the passing of one phase of Aboriginal life in the Centre. Much has been destroyed by the white man, and yet Harney can rest in the knowledge that the culture is hanging on, and even rebuilding.
This is the first book of Harney's that I have read: I had in my mind that he was a mere teller-of-tales, but this book is much more than that. It is a celebration of Aboriginal culture, as much as a white man of his generation could write. It is also a reflection on the clash of cultures; of white and black; what was passing; and some musing on what was yet to come (Harney was concerned about the commercialization of the Rock in the 1950s - imagine if he could see it now!). I will finish this review by quoting the last few lines of this book -
"To me he [Djuwerri] epitomized the Australian aborigine. People who helped us freely in the past, yet because of their colour and nomadic way of life, were on the scrapheap in our social structure.
Yet Welfare is moving on. Obstacles are overcome slowly. The pressure is on from both sides. When the day comes that we understand them as they understand us I hope they will have it in their hearts to forgive us our trespasses against them."
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