This Accursed Land by Lennard Bickel
Melbourne: Sun Books, 1989 (First published 1977) ISBN 0725103027
Douglas Mawson, and his fellow Antarctic explorers that formed the Australasian Antarctic Expedition of 1911-1914, are arguably the most unsung of all the brave explorers of the Earth's uncharted territories. Mawson's face is on the Australian $100 note and several places have been named after him, but I am sure many Australians and most of the world know little of his exploits apart from the fact he went to Antarctica.
It is true that events conspired against his story being more well-known. The Australian expedition travelled to Antarctica at the same time as Amundsen and Scott, and Mawson's exploits were overshadowed by the triumph and tragedy of those two expeditions. The outbreak of World War One then meant that tales of explorers were no longer the news they once were.
Mawson's book Home of the Blizzard was, until the publication of Bickel's book, the only written record of the expedition (in fact the final editing of the Mawson papers wasn't completed until 1975). Mawson's book documented the entire expedition, whereas in This Accursed Land Bickel focusses solely on the extraordinary journey of Mawson, Ninnis and Mertz. Bickel used material from the expedition to flesh out this story: as he writes in an Author's Note "Mawson's account of that journey [in Home of the Blizzard] has been the only writing on the epic during the last sixty years; and typically - and perhaps necessarily - modest, it was a tightly controlled narrative which precluded heroics."
And there were plenty of heroics. Simply to move anywhere in what came to be known as King George V Land was a feat of heroism. Due to the Katabatic winds that build up over the internal ice-sheets, the area in which the Mawson expedition operated is one of the windiest in the World. Even in the summer months the men were often confined to their tents by winds well in excess of 60 kilometres per hour, which often blew continuously for a week at a time. This weather was to have a catastrophic effect on Mawson, Ninnis and Mertz as they attempted to journey from Commonwealth Bay through King George V Land to connect with work done by the previous Nimrod Expedition that Mawson took part in.
As they struggled across the rugged terrain, they were often trapped in their tents for days on end, and when Ninnis died after falling down a crevasse, an accident in which Mertz and Mawson lost nearly all their food and much of their equipment, they had not much time to try and return to base before the departure of the supply ship Aurora. Due to the lack of food, Mawson and Mertz began to eat their sledge dogs, unwittingly poisoning themselves by eating the dog's livers, which contain toxic doses of Vitamin A. Mertz eventually succumbed to this, which left Mawson on his own, with little food and with 160 kilometres of country to traverse before making it back to the expedition hut and safety.
The rest of the expedition did send out a party to search for the missing men - they travelled as far as they could in the time they had before the Aurora had to leave or risk being crushed by the ice, leaving a cairn with food at their furthermost searching point before turning back. It was later on the same day that Mawson found the cairn - the food saved his life, but he was too weak to catch the retreating search party.
Mawson eventually got to "Aladdin's Cave", where he was able to shelter from a storm for several days before the last stretch to the huts. As he crested the rise to head down to Commonwealth Bay, he could see on the horizon the black smudge that was the Aurora leaving the bay. Fortunately a small party had been left behind in case Mawson's party returned, and although the Aurora was contacted by radio, it was unable to make it back into the Bay owing to the weather, so Mawson and his rescuer's were doomed to spend another winter in Antarctica. Bickel explains that this enforced period without activity may have actually been beneficial for Mawson for his recovery.
It was not beneficial for Sidney Jeffryes, who was the radio operator who stayed behind to help find Mawson: he went mad that last winter, and never fully recovered from the experience of being stuck in Antarctica for the winter. Owing to the extra winter, Mawson found he made it back to Australia in debt, which the writing of Home of the Blizzard cleared.
Bickel's telling of Mawson's adventure is well researched, well written and gripping. There is an afterword by the (then) last surviving member of the expedition, which well describes Mawson's qualities, and how his ordeal changed him. As for apparatus, that's about as good as it gets, as there is no index, and the maps are useless (although the photos are not too bad).
If you want to know more about Mawson, the awesome challenges that he faced, and his and his companions bravery in the face of peril, I can highly recommend This Accursed Land.
Cheers for now, from
A View Over the Bell